I'm still in the trip hangover, to be honest. I miss the sunlight, the sound of the waves, the silence, the warm snuggles on the beach and just, just Andaman. Everything about Andaman. So it's the 29th of February, a special occurrence, and who wouldn't want to make the most of it? I've decided to mark my day with a travelogue about my recent trip. And just a friendly disclaimer, its not going to be a quick read!
We took the 11:30 pm flight to Port Blair from Kempegowda Airport. Our flight was delayed by half an hour but I couldn't care less. Thanks to the in-house bookstore that kept me good company.
Reached Port Blair airport at 2:00 am and started drooling at heart like a dog to already start exploring the place. Our checkout and transportation to the hotel were the easiest tasks, thanks to Makemytrip who organized our entire trip way too well. We did not have to worry about having our tickets booked or carrying our heavy luggage around; all too well taken care of I must say. Our stay for the day was at the TSG Emerald hotel, hardly any distance from the airport. I would give the hotel an average rating compared to our other stays for their service which was not too hospitable. The food and rooms were great though! After a quick power nap I and chucks headed out for breakfast (it was covered in our package but we overslept!). Now Port Blair is just another town, nothing too pleasantly bucolic about the place. So our look out for local dhabas failed and so we ended up at the Mehmaan hotel. We ordered some coffee, chappattis and rice and indulged in happy conversation with the waiter, after which we got the hell out to start our trip, officially *Drum beats*
The perfect panacea to beat the heat is some cold beer and that is just what we got. After the Ross expedition we were taken to Corbyn's Cove, a laid-back, lively beach, 6 kms away from the jetty. We rushed to the nearby bar (the only one in the vicinity) and ordered all kinds of sea food, a beer and a breezer. The view from the lawn we were seated in was heavenly! Nothing makes your day fulfilled like watching the glistening sea and feeling the breeze on you. I and chucks sat there for god-knows-how-long, just watching, admiring and soaking it all up.
Around 6 in the evening we were taken to Cellular jail, a historically significant spot and the location of
Kaala Pani movie. A light and sound show was organized to educate tourists on the significance of this colonial prison and the life history of several freedom fighters. I kept staring into the dark, empty cells. The loud cries and slogans resounded in me and I looked at chucks for a little comfort from all the trepidation. The show went on for almost an hour, the last event of the day. We were taken back to our hotel, tired, exhausted, yet happy and thankful for an eventful day. After a hot shower and late dinner we watched TV for a while and slept off, legs hugged, hands folded.
Day 2 - Port Blair-Havelock Island
The day began with yet another visit to the Cellular Jail, this time with a guide who took us to all the cells and explained the lives and throes of the freedom fighters. I imagined whips, batons, cruel labor and bloody savages as I walked through the bleak corridors, each cell alike. The only thing that united the prisoners must have been the undying spirits in their tortured bodies. The place that held the slain, how disturbing.
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| Front view of one of the cellars |
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| The cradle of endless struggles |
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| Cellular jail : Front view |
We moved on to the watch tower from where the whole island is visible in bird's eye view. After gawking at the sea, which is so beautifully seen from up the tower, we were taken local shopping. I must admit we did not really enjoy the time spent at the shopping emporium so I and chucks decided to explore a few nearly places on foot. The sun was on us, brighter than ever and my sinus did not have a good time. So we headed back to where we began and walked in for lunch. A pure vegetarian meal awaited us, after which it was time for us to head to the port to take the cruise to Havelock. We had to wait a while for the luggage to be placed and tickets to be handed out to the travelers. Once inside, the sailing was so smooth that I easily slept off. When I woke up, Havelock jetty was waiting to welcome us. The coral green and blue waters were magical and chucks couldn't wait to float and swim in it already. From the jetty our trip guides escorted us to our stay for the following two nights, Symphony Palm Resort. Everything about the resort seduced us - the hippie vibe, wooden shacks, live music and best part, the beach right opposite. We were going to have the best memories here, we told ourselves. Our luggages were delivered to our rooms and we decided to spend a slow, romantic evening at the beach. The sun had just set and the sky showed off all its glory. Underneath it we swung on hammocks and sipped on cold beer, told stories, made plans and held hands for what seemed like forever. Later we walked back to the bar adjoining our resort, The Venom Bar. We listened to soulful live music and recollected a beautiful day and while chucks ordered another drink I settled down to read. It was the perfect end to a beautiful day.
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| The port. We boarded our cruise here |
Day 3 - Havelock Island
We left the resort at 9 and took a boat to Elephant beach where many sea sports were arranged for the day. Our sail to the beach is perhaps one of the most magical experiences ever. The light house amidst lush green trees facing the sky that's spread across like an endless carpet, the stillness of the sea, the union of the sky and the sea, the howling wind and the man I love by my side. We reached the beach and quickly settled our bags down, chucks changed into swim clothes and I, well I sat by the beach and watched the show. Oh, almost forgot, I dared to jet ski. The crankiest hydrophobic that I am, jet skiing was a true act of bravery to me. So now lets cross that off of my list of fears to overcome. Chucks fell in love with the waters of Andaman as easily as I fall in love with a bookstore. He swam and swam and would come out to the shore to me and sit by my side as I read. And then its a repeat. He also happily snorkeled as I watched in awe. The whole beach was filled with happy couples, joint families, young parents, vendors and guides. I opted for a cup of tea to go with the mood and soaked the moments up to frame them up in my heart for an eternity.
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| The most beautiful light house! |
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| Elephant beach |
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| Smiling over good times |
We returned to our boats and began sailing. The journey wasn't as smooth as when we came but funny or not, I slept through it. Through the bumpy waves and unsteady sail I managed to sleep, and that reminded me of no one but Jesus. Of how he slept through the commotion, through the tension, through the fears. I was happy.
We got to our resort, quickly changed and rented a scooter for the rest of the day. We first stopped at a tiny shack for lunch. Boy, did the morning make us hungry. It was a cosy little shack with the most interestingly rhyming name - "Riya Priya Triya." We smiled at the name board and settled in to order the largest meal possible - prawns, fish, squid - we ordered it all! There was quite a crowd of Israelis around and many good luck messages were posted on the thatched walls of the shack in Hebrew. The service was warm and friendly and the food, delectable! We promised the owner a return visit for dinner and sped to Radhanagar beach for another round of swimming and romance at sunset. After many failed swimming attempts I decided to just pretend like a swimmer by the shallow end of the water. The sun went down on us in no time and we watched it, feeling endowed and sublime. On our way back we saw the rising moon and I held on to my husband tighter for being a wonderful travel partner and the best life partner.
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| Radhanagar beach |
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| cheers! |
After a quick dinner the rest of our evening was spent watching Titanic and somewhere in between we slept off to the lashing of the waves.
Day 4 - Havelock-Neil Island
Okay so this day will forever hold a special place in my memory. Not because I woke up at 5 in the morning but because I did that for Scuba. Yessss (victory dance) so something else to strike off of my fear list (I don't really have a bucket list, it sucks). I and chucks were madly excited about this and so we rode to the beach where we were asked to sign a document showing our consent and all that I'm-responsible-if-I-die stuff. We did that, eyes closed and got into our diving suits. After a fifteen minute long diving lesson we began what had always seemed to me a formidable task (Oh and whoever wishes to dive, its okay if you can't swim. They've got it all covered! Yay for me!). As I was guided deep into the waters I made sure to take long breaths as was instructed and just relax and let myself loose. Guys, there is a whole kingdom down there, like their own tiny mountains, their own little world down there. To be able to remain alive and wonder at every little movement is magic. We dived for almost three quarter of an hour, clicked some underwater photographs and surfaced back on water. I wasn't really disappointed it got over, I was just too glad it happened. For the rest of the day we couldn't stop talking about the experience and beamed in victory at receiving our first ever diving certificates. Yay again!
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| All ok! |
We got back to our room, had breakfast and vacated in time for our cruise to our next destination, Neil Island. The sail this time wasn't as smooth as the one to Havelock. I fell sea sick and barfed like it was nobody's business. By the time my duty at the rest room was done we had reached Neil. I thanked heavens and got the hell out, longing for some fresh air. The Island, we were told, was a tiny one and spanned less than 5 kms. Reception is very poor in Neil so we made all the emergency calls at Havelock. Also, don't think of cash machines as the place has none. We were advised by our guides the previous day to make all withdrawals at Havelock which housed a single ATM for the whole island. We first visited Bharatpur beach, hardly 2 kms away from the jetty. The road to the island was narrow, surrounded by nothing but green. Hiring a scooter is not advisable as there is nothing much to explore here. However, cycling would be a great idea considering the tiny roadless woods to explore. The beach was so peaceful and shaded by rows of trees, different from all the others we had seen. I settled down with a cup of chai and my journal while chucks soaked in the wind and the waves. We were soon accompanied by a little dog who stayed with us for a really long time. We fed her some biscuits and chips before leaving and made sure she left us happy and content. We had a great time to ourselves at this beach, reflecting on life and the beauty of staying in the moment.
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| Bharatpur beach |
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| The friendly dog |
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| Bharatpur beach |
That done, we were taken to our home for the night, The Pearl Park resort by the Lakshmanpur beach. We were surrounded by the sunset point on one side and sunrise point on the other. No time was wasted making up for our lost sleep instead we walked right down to the beach, collecting shells and stones and watching the gulls go about their business.
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| Lakshmanpur beach : View from the walkway |
We lingered there a while and lazed back to our room for some well deserved rest. Our evening was spent with some chilled beer and lime soda, listening to the sea telling her story, watching couples look into each other's eyes, holding hands and laughing endlessly.
Day 5 - Neil-Port Blair
Our itinerary was officially over with Neil. I woke up early in the morning and spent some quiet time time with nature. I journaled everything that crossed my eyes and mind in the freshness of the morning air. The giant trees and the wind and the waves said happy goodbyes and we parted with joy.
Our cruise back to Port Blair was dull, mostly because the fact that a memorable trip was coming to an end sunk in. Once we reached Port Blair we were taken to the TSG Grand hotel for hault before our night flight. I and chucks decided to do a quick Aberdeen market expedition just for the kicks. The bazaar was a regular everyday market experience and the only things we purchased were some pearl jewelry for our families and a notebook for me to barf out my thoughts. The rest of the day was a blur and all I remember is waiting for our flight back to Bangalore. It was over, five days of our glorious escapade.
When we unlocked the door to our home in Bangalore the shells and stones in my bag clinked against each other, reminding me of all the good memories etched in the sands of Andamans.
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